Syringa reticulata the “Japanese Lilac Tree” is the largest of the lilacs, un-pruned it can reach 25 to 30ft in height and with a spread of 15 to 25 ft. It forms an oval to rounded-shaped small tree. They are slow growing, not reaching maturity for over ten years.

The neat compact heads of creamy buds opening a little later than other Lilacs in early in June, to make a fine display of glistening white. The fragrant flowers are borne in large terminal panicles up to 30cm (12in) long and up to 25cm (10in) wide. It flowers profusely with a distinct honey fragrance.
The leaves are dark green and have greyish undersides and yellow autumn colour. It also has a lovely cherry coloured bark.

Lilacs are very undemanding, and generally pest-free. The compact bushes are covered with flowers, even when young. This old and still popular white is one of the loveliest and most reliable. It is a very showy plant that makes a gorgeous specimen tree. The Japanese lilac Tree is also a favorite subject in the art of Bonsai

Like a fine wine, lilacs depend on the previous years weather to help contribute to their fragrance. If the spring is hot and rainy this will result in poorly scented fragrances. If however the spring was cool and sunny this will increase the sweetness of the fragrances. A lilac takes 3-5 years to reach full potential color and bloom size.

Sowing: Late winter/late spring and late summer/autumn.
Store seeds in the refrigerator or cool dry location until you are ready to begin sowing.
Seeds can be left to go through the seasons naturally or germination hastened by “Stratifying” (imitating the seasons)

The “Natural” method:
Soak the seeds for 24 hours in room temperature water.
Sow 6mm (¼in) deep in pots or trays of seed compost, cover the surface with fine grit and stand in water until compost is completely moistened. Label the containers. Place the containers outside in a cold frame or plunge them up to the rims in a shady part of the garden border. Some of the seeds may germinate during the spring and summer and these should be transplanted when large enough to handle.

“Hastening Germination” by stratification:
Soak the seeds for 24 hours in room temperature water. Take a piece of moistened kitchen towel and fold it into four, place the seeds inside and place the whole lot into a small ziplock bag. Place this inside the fridge. Fridge’s are usually set at 4°C (39°F), this is a perfect temperature to simulate “winter” Check the bag occasionally; plant out any seeds that may have germinated. Leave for 8 weeks, then to simulate “spring” simply bring the bag out of the fridge, sow as instructions above and place in an area that is around 21°C (70°F). Keep moist but not wet at all times.

Cultivation:
When seedlings have their first pair of true leaves and are large enough to handle, transplant into 7.5cm (3in) pots. Pot on seedlings as required and grow on indoors before planting outside permanently.

Planting:
Plant in a well drained sunny position, Lilacs should be “mound-planted” and the soil should be well drained. Remove the topsoil, mix sand / gravel 25cm (10in) into the subsoil. Compost or bone-meal may also be added. Mix the topsoil with peat or vermiculite to cover the root system once the lilac is planted. Mulch and water well.

Aftercare:
Mulch and fertiliser with high phosphorus should be applied at the base of the plant each spring, Water throughout the first year and during summer heat. Leaves should be pert, not limp. Transplant in spring or autumn when the plant is dormant.

Pruning:
Late autumn to early spring. To encourage large flowers and to keep the plant's size in check, prune out a third of the branches each year. Do not “Top the plant” or you will loose a whole years blooms in the process!