Rosa Rugosa alba is the original white form of the species that founded the Rugosa Class (1892). It is one of the highest rated roses by the American Rose Society. It was eagerly used by hybridisers in the late 19th Century and is again being used by serious hybridisers again today. Fragrant, disease resistant, winter hardy, and it sets large hips.

This select stock of Rosa rugosa is recommended by many garden journalists and magazines. Not to be confused with common briars, it is a pedigree proven rose that grows thicker and better each year. From early spring the lush green foliage will encourage further growth from below ground level that, unlike ordinary roses, come true to the parent plant. Through the summer it is covered in richly perfumed large white flowers with sun gold centres. In autumn lovely golden foliage is complimented by large red hips from which you can make rose hip syrup or jelly or leave on the plants to excellent autumn bird food.

This species hybridises readily with many other roses, and is valued by rose breeders for its considerable resistance to the diseases rose rust and rose black spot. It is also extremely tolerant of seaside salt spray and storms, commonly being the first shrub in from the coast. It is widely used in landscaping, being relatively tough and trouble-free. Needing little maintenance, it is suitable for planting in large numbers.

The sweetly scented flowers are used to make potpourri in Japan and China, where it has been cultivated for about a thousand years.

Rosa hugonis has earned both the Award of Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1917 and the Award of Garden Merit in 1925.

Sowing: Late winter/late spring and late summer/autumn.
Pour warm water over seeds, let them soak for 24 hours until swelling is noticeable.
Seeds can be left to go through the seasons naturally or germination hastened by “Stratifying” (imitating the seasons)

The “Natural” method:
Sow 6mm deep in pots or trays of John Innes seed compost, cover the surface with fine grit and stand in water until compost is completely moistened. Label the containers. Place the containers outside in a cold frame or plunge them up to the rims in a shady part of the garden border.
Some of the seeds may germinate during the spring and summer and these should be transplanted when large enough to handle.

“Hastening Germination” by stratification:
Soak the seeds as above. Take a piece of moistened kitchen towel and fold it into four, place the seeds inside and place the whole lot into a small ziplock bag. Place this inside the fridge. Fridge’s are usually set at 4°C (39°F), this is a perfect temperature to simulate “winter” Check the bag occasionally; plant out any seeds that may have germinated. Leave for 12 week, then to simulate “spring” simply bring the bag out of the fridge, place in an area that is around 10°C (50°F)

Rose seeds sometimes need to go through two winters – so don’t throw away the tray too soon, simply place it in a shady part of the garden, check it occasionally - I have had many “surprise successes” this way, with seed that I have given up on!

Cultivation:
When seedlings have their first pair of true leaves and are large enough to handle, transplant into 7.5cm (3in) pots. Pot on seedlings as required and grow on indoors before planting outside permanently.

Pruning:
Late autumn to early spring
Maintenance: In the first two years, cut out only dead, diseased or damaged wood.
Renewal: Cut back one or two of the oldest stems to 30-45cm (12-18in) above ground and repeat every one to three years. This rose blooms on old wood so take care when pruning.

Plant Uses:
Suitable for planting in a woodland. Tolerant of shade and of poor soils.

Other Uses:
Roses and Lavender, with a little mint and some lemon juice to activate the alkaloids can make both a brilliant pink dye and a very tasty pink lemonade!